Відео

As far as I know this stove model does not have a down draft vent. The vent at the top back is for venting the oven into the airspace above. I use a regular vent fan above the stove. A downdraft would have to be vented below and to the outdoors

type "assembling dodge key fob" into search line above

@@mybobbleheads Thank you but I still can't find any videos explaining how to install the extra key lock mechanism. It's small and the spring need to be in the right place and it snaps in. I'm excited I can use my key fob now as the new cover worked, however the key may pull out because it's not locked in there.

That's too bad but obvious to me yours is a different model. My numbers on the dial are all black and easy too see just like the font on the screen I am reading while typing this reply. I do however find that boiling takes long unless using the front left burner ( I now heat water in my kettle to speed the process) . The oven preheat is very similar to my old stove and unless baking I only wait 5 minutes and then adjust cook times as needed.

Ha. I did clarify that in the video however I don't think removing the screws will cause any issues for anyone as they are screws that have threads so you can just thread them back in as needed but thanks for clarifying as I was just following the instructions given with the tubes. Having to do it again I would still remove the screw to allow proper cleaning and also inspecting of the screw and replacing if needed.

I assume that you are talking about the vent at the back. You have to slide the stove out far enough to access with a screwdriver, approx 8-10 inches.. You need to remove the spacer plate if you installed it and then there are two more screws, top left and right that will allow the vent cover to be removed.

are you referring to the part under the oven control mode selection adjustment knob? I just pulled all mine off and realized that "one of these is not like the other" It was probably an offshore cheaper version of the rest. I am sorry that this broke for you ... Someone must have leaned into it pretty good although it should have been the same stem material as the rest. Are you under warranty as this could be a pricy part with electronics attached?

@@mybobbleheads no I have had mine for 4 years. But I did buy 2 replacement parts from LG $7ea. Got a spare. It's like the plastic rots with use. I tried to glue together and it kept snapping. So strange why that one piece is plastic and the rest is metal. I found service manual online and will be doing the replacement soon. Guess I should do a video since I'm not the only one with the problem. I love mine otherwise. $7 part I can deal with

Not sure how to add video to my reply however I finally removed the back grill and it only took 10 mins. You have to slide the stove out far enough to access with a screwdriver, approx 8-10 inches.. You need to remove the spacer plate if you installed it and then there are two more screws, top left and right that will allow the vent cover to be removed. I have now removed it once in 3 plus years but would not hesitate to do it more often as it's easy to do

Ha, thanks but not much experience other than life experience and the desire to keep what is quality craftsmanship out of the dump. I am pleased that this helped you out in any way😊

@kathy H ... That was a while ago and I don't have this trailer anymore, however, If you take a look at your typical kitchen cabinet drawer it will help to see how to do it. you can Either glue some wood to the shelves or side panels that will accept the rails needed for the drawers. Just remember to account for the rail thickness in your calculations. Take measurements of your home kitchen drawer boxes compared to the side cabinet that the rails are mounted to and use this measurement in your calculation. I remember using very short nails or screws to allow the glue to set up when installing the wood cleats(rail supports) , just long as long as the screws only enter the panel by 1/4 inch you should be OK. Water lines normally run below the cabinets. Hope this helps a bit

Bummer. sorry to hear. I read the manual after posting the video and it was easy to lock/unlock. I had the oven switch on and that's why it didn't work.. Mine is still working great after 4.5 years... Unfortunately 10 % failure is quite common on electronics nowadays. I wish you luck on your new choice. Old school coil stoves are probably your best choice

Sorry to hear that. I am not a parts or repair guy. I would start with a local appliance parts shop. I just checked mine and they are all silver except the oven which is black but when I take a magnet to any of them they are not magnetic so none of them are steel. They may be a type of aluminum or composite material. Often when electrical connections are behind a switch then for safety the components will not be steel to prevent shock. Whishing you luck on your part search and hoping it is not like a washing machine switch which can cost hundreds

@@mybobbleheads I thought that it was weird that the only plastic (Black) stem was the one connected to the oven. The rest are all hard non conductive metal. I will give either Best Buy or LG a call tomorrow. I do not think the metal ones will ever break but that plastic one, looks like it was made to break off..

I bought a replacement from LG $6.95. Have to figure out how to swap it.

Click the up button on the side of your phone.. Works great👆😁

care to elaborate on just how stupid your question is? The video was made to show a problem that I was having and shared to a forum that I followed through Facebook. It helped me to solve a problem.., I guess you have too much time on your hands... ?I guess I do also by commenting on your brainless comment, cheers

Appreciate the honesty. Like I said in previous comments my wife doesn't like it much either but I do most of the cooking ad she likes to cook from the other room. She is getting better at using this stove though now that I got rid of her favorite(crap) pots and thin baking sheets.. Definitely are better options but they can be pricey and they also may have flaws.. Still using mine daily and It must be 4 years now and barely any marks. The stainless looks brand new however like our other stainless it requires weekly cleaning especially with oil splatters

It was included. If I remember correctly it was attached to one of the cardboard/Styrofoam inserts. It was concealed quite well

@@mybobbleheads ty! The HDepot install people are coming back out next week and I'm asking about this.

@@SueSeward i hope they sorted this out for you

@@mybobbleheads our electrician just slid it back flush to the wall

that's too bad. I am not sure how to help you at this stage. Do you have control of anything with your fob? Can you lock and unlock?

Use volt meter to measure at the contact button if nothing check resistance from battery to battery holder sometimes you have to bend the battery contacts so they dig in the battery . Mine is still acting up that's the stuff I tried . I'm beginning to think it's a intermittent signal .

Lisa have you figure this out. But that’s what I’m trying to figure out

@@derrickpearson5518 I kind of figured it out.. I just yanked it open... honestly.. it was looking SO nasty I couldn't stand it anymore... I just lifted the front part out of the slots it fits into and cleaned it and then popped it back in. DUMBEST.DESIGN.EVER. I will never buy another LG appliance as long as I live, and whenever I am at Home Depot, I make a POINT of engaging customers looking at LG appliances to let them know to steer far clear of that brand. They are horrible.

You have to slide the stove out far enough to access with a screwdriver, approx 8-10 inches.. You need to remove the spacer plate if you installed it and then there are two more screws, top left and right that will allow the vent cover to be removed. I have now removed it once in 3 plus years but would not hesitate to do it more often as it's easy to do

@@derrickpearson5518 You have to slide the stove out far enough to access with a screwdriver, approx 8-10 inches.. You need to remove the spacer plate if you installed it and then there are two more screws, top left and right that will allow the vent cover to be removed. I have now removed it once in 3 plus years but would not hesitate to do it more often as it's easy to do

I agree, my replacement aftermarket tubes also came with the holes facing up on the center burner...However in my case it's not a big issue as I rarely use the center burner except to preheat or sear and the flavorizer bars seem to have prevented any issues for me... The old center tube did however provide a more even heat when the grill was crowded. Maybe the original type is still available through Weber

agreed, a lot of folks buy the shiny new one from the box stores that lasts a few years before falling apart.. I just wish that I could scoop a few of these old Webers before people discard them